The two weeks I had in Piha were outstanding overall but my last weekend was picture perfect and couldn’t have been any better. One of the reasons was Emmy turning eight last Saturday and the great birthday party going on at the house, a rainbow loom party to be precise and I was impressed by all the effort and creativity put into the party preparations by all the family members. No question that the birthday girl was really excited on the birthday morning and was up really (!) early. And what a surprise that the whole family was dressed up in onesies (and the eager readers will already know what piece of clothing that is). Most impressive was Dad’s pink unicorn costume and especially the pride and attitude he wore it with. For reasons of unicorn-privacy I’ll just show the unicorn-body as he was climbing up the porch to have a look at the waves from the roof: What a cool Dad! Or can you imagine your Dad wearing a pink unicorn onesie? Even the people not so …
Do you know that awkward moment when you see a set of really, I mean really, big waves coming towards you? The sudden prayers you put out there, asking to survive and surface after what’s coming towards you? And then you just take a deep breath and dive into that monster. You come up, grasp, dive in again. Come up, grasp, dive in again…. Whether it’s in the surf or in real life – that big set might scare you, turn your world upside down for a while, keep you under the water for a bit – but as always in life: it does pass and you will eventually pop up again. Today I was very lucky to make it through some big sets of waves and wish I looked like the guy in the picture, peacefully sitting on top of the wave. And I remembered: although I can’t stop the waves I can learn to surf them (Thanks, Jon Kabat-Zinn for that wisdom). Picture by Figure20.
Right now I’m not dreaming about riding mountains or slopes but rather waves. Since I got here the surf has been absolutely stunning. I had left both board and wetsuit here so I luckily ready to hit the waves from day one. Every single day I’m getting out there – and even though I am not great at it every single time out in the ocean feels great anyway. Above are a couple of pictures I took from Tasman Lookout at the South End of Piha Beach when I had a little surf break. And for my surf friends who want to see more: The local Surf Club has done a little video:
Seeing pictures and hearing stories from my down under friends surf seems to be cranking in New Zealand – I literally can’t wait to get there. In the meantime I’m happy with watching these amazing pictures of underwater surf shots from Tahiti (Skip the technical stuff if you’re not interested and start at 1:50 for the underwater images):